History of Elba Island
When you think of Elba, the first thing that
springs to mind is the island’s fantastic
sea and coastline, its luxuriant green Mediterranean
vegetation, its magnificent beaches with thousands
of coves and inlets which make it quite unique,
and, of course, Napoleon, despite the fact that
he stayed on the island for less than a year.
But
the history of the island goes far beyond the
ten months spent here by the French Emperor;
it began in the very distant past, as far back
as the middle and upper Palaeolithic ages,
to which the finds in Marciana Archaeological
Museum bear witness, together with other material
from S. Giuseppe aeneolithic burial ground
and the Marciana mountain subapennine villages,
as Dr. Umberto Gentini, Director of the Azienda
di Promozione Turistica of the Tuscan Archipelago
tells us.
“History destined the Isle of Elba to
be the stage for great events: and in fact, every
Mediterranean civilization has left important
traces of its presence. Nature, art and thousands
of years of culture, encompassed in a microcosm
of 224 sq km, go to create a unique atmosphere
and conjure up remarkable scenarios, the fruit
of encounters between different peoples.
Legend has it that on his adventurous travels in
search of the Golden Fleece Jason stopped off at
Porto Argon, the present-day Capo Bianco, and,
as Virgil recounted in the Aeneid, it was from
this very port that three hundred Elban youths
set sail to support “Pius Aeneas” in
his savage fight against the Rutuli. For the Etruscans,
Elba was an inexhaustible source of wealth: already
as early as the VIII century BC they exploited
the mines and exported iron all over the Mediterranean,
from which they derived great wealth.
Furnaces were built, where minerals were smelted
twenty-four hours a day. This gave rise to an
intense glow of firelight which, Aristotle recounts,
induced Greek navigators to call the island by
the name of Aethalia (spark). Five centuries
of Etruscan dominion have handed down to us various
necropolises, a few ruins of smelting ovens and
numerous “highland villages” set
in incomparable scenarios.
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Following
the decline of Etruscan dominance, the Romans
inherited the iron-working industry, but also
exploited the granite quarries and discovered
the healing powers of the mud-baths at the
San Giovanni spa, the island’s splendid
landscapes and its excellent wines.
Pliny the Elder praised this “Island of
good wine” and an intense activity of ships
with their cargoes of amphorae soon began to
flourish: many amphorae are preserved at the
Archaeological Museums in Portoferraio and Marciana
and, together with the amazing finds yielded
up by the sea, recount the history of ancient
navigation. And in the most picturesque gulfs,
wealthy patricians built mansions at Linguella,
the Grotte and Capo Castello.
In the Middle Ages, it
was the turn of the Republic of Pisa to exploit
Elba’s iron mines
and granite quarries. Many of the columns that
decorate Pisa’s
Piazza dei Miracoli were sculpted by the skilled
stonemasons of San Piero. Much evidence testifies
to the Pisan period: the Romanesque churches
and the tower of San Giovanni in Campo, built
on an enormous mass of granite, but, above
all, the imposing Fortress at Marciana and
that of Volterraio, sentry of the mountains
and sea.
In 1548 the Medici family took over the island;
Cosimo I built the defensive walls around
Portoferraio, a true gem of military urban
planning. The harmony between sea, land and
architecture was so perfect that the new
town was called Cosmopoli “cradle of
civilization and culture, example of equilibrium
and rationality”. The Spanish then
took over Porto Azzurro and made their contribution
by building the imposing Forte San Giacomo,
now a prison, in addition to several chapels
and the charming little Monserrato Sanctuary,
set against the bleak dolomitic mountainside.
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In the XVIII century, Elba was contested by
the Austrians, Germans, English and French with
frenetic diplomatic negotiations or fierce battles,
until its “full ownership and sovereignty” was
assigned to Napoleon Bonaparte who left behind
important traces of his rule: he built roads,
reorganized mining economy, increased the production
and export of wine.
He converted an old, deconsecrated church into
a charming theatre, which, after skilful restoration,
reacquired its ancient splendour and is now the
seat of important cultural events.
On his return to France, he left behind two residences
which are now National Museums, visited every
year by thousands of tourists.
And the magic continues. A favourite subject
of great macchiaioli painters, Elba offers hospitality
to Italian and foreign artists who gather together
in discreet cenacles, whose doors are open to
endless “feasts of the memory.
Gli
Spagnoli | Napoleone | I
Medici e Cosmopoli |
Il
dominio degli Appiani | Dagli
Argonauti al Pirata Barbarossa |