Church of San Michele in Capoliveri

The Pieve of San Michele was built around the 12th century during the Pisan domination. It was one of the most beautiful churches architecturally, and along with those of San Giovanni, San Lorenzo in Marciana, and San Giovanni Battista and San Silvestro in Ferraja (completely destroyed in the 16th century), it was granted the title of Pieve.

In ecclesiastical chronicles, it is remembered as the most important Elban church with the richest income from the island's patrimony.

The building dedicated to San Michele, who according to biblical tradition was the commander who led the heavenly armies against Lucifer, was constructed in the valley below the town of Capoliveri, along the ancient road connecting it to the port of Mola.

From the exterior of the church, the stunning location allows one to enjoy views of the Mola plain and the Gulf of Porto Azzurro.

The current structure is very different from the original church, of which only the apse and part of the walls, made of white-pink limestone, remain intact.

Probably, the church originally consisted of a single nave and was covered by a wooden trussed roof. On the facade was a bell tower with a sail, and it was decorated with semi-circular arches supported alternately by pilasters and corbels.

Fun Fact: One of the most notable events in its history was the unexpected passage of Pope Gregory XI to Elba in November 1376. During his journey to return the papacy to Rome after the long French exile, the convoy was forced to make an emergency stop at the Island of Elba due to adverse maritime conditions. On this occasion, the Pope felt the need to celebrate a mass, which was held in the church of San Michele.

In the 16th century, when the island was plagued by pirate raids, the small building was devastated and reduced to ruins. Much of what remained was later used, a few centuries later, for the construction of a small cemetery.

Throughout the 20th century, the site was completely abandoned to the ravages of time, which contributed to the church's decay. Only in the early 2000s were the Romanesque parts subject to restoration work that brought them back to their original beauty.