The Church of San Nicolò in San Piero

The ancient Romanesque church of San Piero, now dedicated to Saint Nicolao, was originally dedicated to Saints Peter and Paul and was listed in the tithing records at the end of the 13th century as Ecclesia Sancti Petri de Ilva.

Fun fact: The church gave its name to the village of San Piero, which in 14th-century documents is referred to as Sancto Petro de Campo.

Over the centuries, the building has undergone numerous alterations. Although it is considered one of the many Romanesque churches of Elba, its characteristic layout with two equal-width naves and two apses dates back to the 9th and 10th centuries.

Its construction dates back to the 7th century, built upon the remains of a pagan temple dedicated to the god Glaucus (the sea god and protector of sailors), of which fragments of black-gloss pottery have been found.

The interior of the church, now reduced to three bays instead of the original five, preserves two Romanesque columns, which divide the two naves, and end in two capitals. Also original to the Romanesque period are the arches above the supports and the corbel arches of the apses, which are filled with a small miniature made of stone and brick chips.

The two apse-shaped naves represent a very rare feature that makes it a unique example in the entire Tuscan Archipelago. It is likely that, when the church was still dedicated to Saints Peter and Paul, the apses were consecrated to them. Indeed, in one apse, remains of a fresco depicting Saint Peter with the book and keys have been found.

Inside, the walls are decorated with 13th-14th century frescoes, with paintings that could be described as "vaguely Pisan" in style, although scholars attribute them to a Catalan painter from the 15th century. The frescoes depict the Crucifixion, the Trinity, and a representation of Saints, including Saint Michael, Saint Nicolao, and Saint Sebastian.

In the 15th century, the Appiani family, lords of Piombino, built two tower-bastions (one to the west and the other to the east), fortifying the original structure for defense against the incursions of the pirate Dragut. This led to the destruction of the two apses and the retreat of the facade, resulting in the reconstruction of much of the side walls.

It is said that until the early 1800s, the church also served as a cemetery, as its floor was supported by underground vaults. After the renovation of the flooring, these burials were completely sealed, and a marble slab with the emblem of death was placed above to preserve their memory.

On the opposite side of the church is the Piazzale Belvedere (which in San Piero is called Facciatoja), highlighting the ancient defensive function of the fortifications. From here, one can enjoy a splendid view of the Gulf of Marina di Campo and the islands of Pianosa, Montecristo, and Giglio.