Free climbing up San Bartolomeo

Free climbing up San Bartolomeo cliff, above Chiessi

From Portoferraio, follow the directions for Procchio and Marina di Campo, and then for Cavoli, Seccheto, Fetovaia, and Pomonte.

After passing all these small villages, after about 30 km, you will arrive at Chiessi and you can park your car in the small square by the church or in the parking lot under the road on the left.

Standing in front of the church, the granite staircase with the sign for the CAI trail number 103 is clearly visible. In about 45 minutes, you will reach the cliff.

The San Bartolomeo cliff is divided into two sections that are not very obvious from below. The first level, accessible by a deviation on the trail marked with a sign, has routes with multiple pitches, while the upper level mainly has single-pitch routes.

There is also a short via ferrata that gives the opportunity to reach the summit.

For this cliff, at least 12 quickdraws and a 60-meter rope are needed, and wearing a helmet is recommended.

Wall 1

1. Edge in the shade 5c
2. Olympus L1 5a L2 6b L3 6c
3. Ascari Variant 7c
4. Scared Gecko Route L1 6b L2 6c
5. Mediterranean Route L1 6b L2 7a L3 6c
6. Ridiculous Tint L1 5c L2 6a L3 A1
7. Edge in the Sun 6b
8. Right Edge in the Sun 6b

23. Sambo Pass L1 6a L2 7a+
24. 111 and Praise L1 5b L2 5a L3 6a
25. Route of the Martagon Lilies L1 5b L2 IV L3 IV+
26. Old Men Route L1 IV L2 IV L3 V
27. Angry Route L1 5c L2 ? L3 ?

Wall 2

9. Ale 7a+
10. Key Maker 7b
11. Miciadiale Start 7a
12. The Crack 6b
13. Aspide 6c
14. Prunella 6a+
15. July 6th 7a
16. Pioneering L1 5a L2 5c
17. Ventarella 6a+
18. Nina 6b+
19. Pinta 6a+
20. Santa Maria 6b
21. Poppy 6a
22. Sara 5c
23. Sambo Pass L1 6a L2 7a+