The eagles' nests - Trekking excursion on the Island of Elba

Starting point: Rio nell'Elba (178 m above sea level);
End point: Rio nell'Elba;
Distance: 12.8 km;
Difficulty level: medium;
Elevation gain: 610 m;
Terrain type: 5.2 km asphalt and 7.6 km dirt road;
Interest: historical, archaeological, and panoramic.

From the square of Rio nell'Elba, a quick road initially crossing the town takes us shortly to the locality of Le Panche (327 m., a small area with picnic tables), where we join a very scenic paved road leading, in about 2 km, to the slopes of the Volterraio. Here, an uphill path, cut through the Mediterranean scrub and then onto the bare rock, reaches (about 40 minutes) the majestic castle (394 m.) built in the Pisan era to protect the eastern populations from frequent pirate attacks.

A lookout post against sea assaults and a refuge in case of an attack, the Volterraio Castle is perfectly integrated with the steep rock beneath and dominates the northern slope of the island. Upon reaching the top, we discover that time has left indelible marks, yet the charm of this fortress remains intact: the surrounding walls, the access staircase to the drawbridge, the walkway with the guardhouse, the square tower, rooms and vaults, the remains of an oven, wells and cisterns, storage areas, and underground passages, battlements and loopholes.

The trail takes us back to the paved road, which we follow for about 4 km (left fork) until reaching the charming Romanesque church of Santo Stefano alle Trane, dating from the 12th century. Passing alongside the old lime kilns, we climb a small path up to the main trail, which continues along the ridge, connecting the peaks of the eastern slope.

We head north, along the ridge, with an extraordinary panorama that stretches across the Portoferraio Gulf, the agricultural plain of Magazzini, and to the south, Porto Azzurro and the eastern part of Monte Calamita.

Upon reaching Monte Castello (390 m.), which overlooks the silent valley of Monserrato and the charming sanctuary dedicated to the Spanish Madonna, we continue on to Cima del Monte, with a breathtaking 360° view of Rio Elba, the mines, abandoned shipyards, the Torre del Giogo, the imposing Volterraio, the Barbarossa beach, and Porto Azzurro.

The descent, steep and fast, takes us back to Le Panche and the tranquility of Rio nell'Elba.